Bucharest 4 Attractions 

Ceausescu's greatest folly took 20,000 workers, 7000 architects and 16 billion Lei to build. The result is a monolith rising 84m (276ft) high and the second-largest building in the world (after the Pentagon).

It was intended to house Communist Party offices, ministries and Ceausescu's state rooms, but at the time of Ceausescu's death, only the exterior and three rooms had been completed. It is now the seat of Romania's Parliament and headquarters of the International Conference Centre.
 

The best view of this monumental building is from Piata Unirii, approaching its east side, but visitors enter on the south side where 45-minute guided tours are offered in English, French, German, Italian, Spanish and Hungarian. The lobby's centerpiece is a magnificent crystal chandelier - only one of the palace's 2800. At the far end, a pink marble staircase leads to shimmering stained-glass windows. Already one feels overwhelmed - and this is just the beginning.

The tour focuses on ten rooms (including ones used by the Senate if it is not in session), decorated in rich oak wood paneling carved by the country's most talented craftspeople. Paintings from the National Art Gallery line the walls, dwarfed by marble columns and high, ornate ceilings. The guide reports how money was lavished on these rooms, which were constantly redecorated as Ceausescu and his wife Elena kept changing their minds. But one thing they got right is the balcony leading out of the opulent Alexandru Ioan Cuza Room, where Ceausescu was to have signed all his documents. Standing on the balcony, looking straight down the Bulevardul Unirii surrounded by a spectacular view of the Centru Civic, one feels at the centre of the universe - just the way the old dictator liked it.

Address: Calea 13 Septembre 1
Tel: (01) 311 3611. Fax: (01) 312 0902.
Transport: Metro Izvor or Unirii; bus 136 or 385.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1600.
Admission: US$2.50; US$2.50 (photography fee); US$10.50 (video free).

Piata Revolutiei  (Revolution Square)

This spot marks the death of President Nicolae Ceausescu more poignantly than the tombstone above his grave. On 21 December 1989, 80,000 people thronged this square, then called Piata Republica (Republican Square).

They were supposedly there for a rally to support the President after riots broke out in the town of Timisoara over the arrest of an outspoken priest. Thinking he was among friends, Ceausescu appeared on the balcony of the Central Committee Building to address the crowd. However, eight minutes into the speech, people began to chant 'Ti-mi-soa-ra, Ti-mi-soa-ra.' As the chanting grew louder, the shock on Ceausescu's face pinpointed the true moment of his downfall - a moment televised all over Romania and, later, the world. Within 24 hours, protesters had stormed the building and Ceausescu and his wife had escaped in a helicopter from the roof; but within days they had been tried and shot by a firing squad.
 

The battle wounds from this deciding moment in Romania's history can still be seen in the buildings surrounding the square. The Royal Palace, housing the National Museum, and The Biblioteca (University Library), gutted by subsequent street fighting, had to be completely renovated. A house behind the library, on the southern end of Calea Victoriei, has been left in its ruined state as a grim monument. On the Central Committee Building, now part of the Senate, a white, marble plaque points to the balcony where Ceausescu lost his grip on the country. It says 'Glorie martirilor nostiri' ('Glory to our Martyrs'), in remembrance of revolutionaries killed in the fighting.

Transport: Metro Universitatii; bus 122, 126, 168, 226, 268, 300 or 368.

Historic Centre

The historic centre comprises the cobblestone streets between Calea Victoriei, Bulevardul Bratianu, Bulevardul Regina Elisabeta and the River Dîmbovita. At its heart is the Curtea Veche (Old Court), where Vlad Tepes built his citadel - a few walls, arches and one strangely intact Corinthian column standing like the last sentinel are all that remain. Its interior can be seen by pre-arranged visits only.

Next door is Bucharest's oldest church, the sixteenth-century Biserica Curtea Veche. Just east of here is the oldest inn, Hanul lui Manuc, Strada Franceza 62-64. Through a signposted gate lies a courtyard where food and drinks are served, overlooked by tall trees and tiered wooden balconies. Must - a juice taken from wine grapes before fermentation - is a recommended house speciality. North of here is Strada Lipscani, an old merchant street where everything from bridal gowns to cheap jeans is sold. Halfway down on the left is Strada Stavropoleos where the remarkable Biserica Stavropoleos can be visited 0830-1800. This church, completed in 1724, has an edifice designed by Constantin Brancoveanu (1688-1714), a Wallachian prince known for his religious architectural achievements. Currently being repaired by design students, its beautiful interior has superb paintings and icons. Attractive cloisters lie to the right of the entrance.

Curtea Veche
Address: Strada Franceza 60
Tel: (01) 314 0375.
Transport: Metro Unirii; bus 72, 90, 104 or 123; tram 21.
Opening hours: Daily 1000-1700 (by appointment only).
Admission: US$0.40.

Muzeul Satului (Village Museum)

Address: Soseaua Kiseleff 28-30
Tel: (01) 222 9106. Fax: 312 9068 or 222 9068.
Transport: Metro Aviatorilor; bus 331 or 131.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1700 (Oct-May); daily 0900-2000 (May-Oct).
Admission: US$0.40; US$0.80 (photography fee); US$4 (video fee).

Zambaccian Museum

For visitors who want to see Romanian art, this is the place to go. KH Zambaccian left his intimate collection of mostly Impressionist paintings (and one of Constantin Brancusi's earliest sculptures) to the state in 1946, along with his beautiful residence. Each room features a Romanian artist of the time and, on leaving, names like Nicolae Grigorescu and Stefan Luchian seem slightly less foreign. The small collection of Paris-based artists - including Picasso, Bonnard and Renoir - is on the top floor.

Address:Strada Muzeul Zambaccian 21A
Tel: (01) 230 1920.
Transport: Metro Aviatorilor; bus 301, 131, 331 or 182.
Opening hours: Wed-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: US$0.80.

Muzeul Taranului Roman (Romanian Peasant Museum)

This eclectic collection of peasant relics won 1996's European Museum of the Year award - and it is easy to see why. The concoction of religious and traditional crafts is so creatively displayed that the exhibition is a work of art in itself.

Handmade rugs, pottery, tools and painted eggs rub shoulders with rosaries and icons. Upstairs a group of mannequins in peasant costumes look like they are about to wake up at any moment and march across the room. This museum certainly brings the Romanian peasant to life.

 

Address:Soseaua Kiseleff 3
Tel: (01) 650 5360. Fax: (01) 312 9875.
E-mail: muztar@sunu.rnc.ro
Transport: Metro Piata Victoriei; bus 205 or 300.
Opening hours: Tues-Sun 1000-1800.
Admission: US$0.80; US$4 (photography free).

Catedrala Patriarhala (Patriarchal Cathedral)